The Albania Road Trip: Why This Country Was Made for Driving
Albania rewards drivers. The country is compact enough that major destinations are never impossibly far apart, yet varied enough that 30 minutes of driving can move you from a Mediterranean coastal cove to an Ottoman fortress city to an Alpine mountain valley. The landscape changes dramatically with altitude and latitude, and the roads — particularly the Riviera coastal route and the main southern highway — are scenic in their own right.
This guide covers the best road trip routes in Albania, practical advice on driving, and suggested itineraries ranging from five days to two weeks. It assumes you are renting a car from Tirana Airport and designing your own route, though guided alternatives are noted where relevant.
Why Drive in Albania?
The short answer: because the best of Albania is inaccessible without a car.
The furgon (shared minivan) network connects the major towns reliably and cheaply. Tirana to Saranda, Tirana to Berat, Tirana to Shkodra — these routes work well on public transport. But the Riviera beach coves accessible only by a rough track, the village of Vuno above the coast, the Benja thermal baths outside Permet, the Antigonea ruins near Gjirokastra, the Koman Lake ferry approach from Shkodra — none of these are reachable on public transport without considerable logistical complexity.
A car also gives you control over timing. Arriving at a viewpoint at golden hour, leaving a beach when you want rather than when the furgon departs, making the spontaneous detour that produces the best moment of the trip — these require your own wheels.
If you want to experience the Riviera with a guide and driver handling all logistics, this Sazan Island and Karaburun boat trip from Vlora is an outstanding day on the water that you can book as a standalone experience alongside your self-drive itinerary — covering the protected peninsula and island that no road reaches.
Getting Your Rental Car
All major car rental companies operate from Tirana International Airport: Hertz, Europcar, Sixt, Avis, and several local Albanian companies. The local companies (Alvia Rent, Lucky Cars) often offer better prices and more flexibility on cross-border driving and road types.
A standard economy car for a week costs EUR 200-280 in shoulder season (April-June, September-October) and EUR 270-360 in peak summer. Book in advance for July and August — cars sell out. The car rental Albania guide covers what to check in the rental agreement, excess coverage, and which local companies have the best reputations.
A standard two-wheel-drive car covers all the routes below. For the Theth road and very rough tracks in the north, a higher-clearance vehicle is advantageous — worth paying the small premium if your itinerary includes the Albanian Alps.
Route 1: The Classic Riviera Road Trip (5-6 Days)
This is the most popular road trip in Albania and the right starting point for a first visit with a coastal focus.
Day 1: Tirana arrival and overnight Land at Tirana International Airport (TIA), pick up your rental car, and spend a night in the capital. The Blloku neighbourhood for dinner and a morning at Skanderbeg Square before departing is time well spent. See where to stay in Tirana for accommodation options — expect EUR 55-90 per night for a good mid-range hotel.
Day 2: Tirana to Vlora (2.5 hours), with Apollonia detour Drive south from Tirana via the Fier bypass to Apollonia, the remarkably well-preserved ancient Greek city founded in 588 BC. The hilltop site has a theatre, a colonnaded promenade, and Byzantine monastery remains within a park setting. Allow two hours. Continue to Vlora for overnight. The drive from Tirana to Vlora takes 2-2.5 hours on the main road.
Vlora rewards a late-afternoon arrival: the Lungomare waterfront promenade is atmospheric in the evening, and the Muradie Mosque at the top of the old town quarter is one of the finest Ottoman buildings in Albania. Guesthouses and hotels in Vlora run EUR 40-75 per night.
Day 3: Vlora to Llogara Pass to Dhermi or Himara (2-3 hours driving, all day with stops) This is the day. The road from Vlora south climbs through the mountains of the Ceraunian range to the Llogara Pass at 1,025 metres. Stop at the pass for the view — the entire Riviera below you, the Ionian extending to the horizon, Greece visible to the south — and walk the short viewpoint trail before descending.
The descent to Dhermi via 22 kilometres of switchbacks through pine forest is spectacular. Stop at Drymades beach below Dhermi if the afternoon sun is right for swimming. Overnight at Dhermi or continue to Himara (45 minutes further south).
Day 4: Himara base day — Gjipe, Porto Palermo, and the Blue Cave Use Himara as a base for the best of the central Riviera. Gjipe beach (40-minute walk from the road or accessible by water taxi), Porto Palermo bay and Ali Pasha’s castle, and the afternoon return along the coast. Alternatively, a boat tour from Himara covers these highlights plus the Blue Cave sea cave in a single day on the water. This Albanian Riviera boat tour from Himara is the most popular on the coast, covering Gjipe, Porto Palermo, and the Blue Cave with swimming stops — a full day well spent for EUR 25-40 per person.
Day 5: Himara to Saranda via Ksamil (1.5 hours), with Blue Eye stop Drive south from Himara to Saranda. Stop at Ksamil first — the turquoise lagoon is best in the morning before crowds — then drive the 8 kilometres into Saranda for lunch and an afternoon visit to the Blue Eye spring (20 minutes from Saranda). The Blue Eye is a karst spring of extraordinary depth and colour; the circular pool of intense blue with water so clear the source is visible is one of Albania’s most photographed natural features.
Day 6: Butrint and return The final day: Butrint national park, 18 kilometres south of Saranda. Spend the morning at the archaeological site — Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Venetian layers all visible in a remarkably compact and beautiful lakeside setting. Afternoon return to Tirana via the inland route (4-4.5 hours), stopping in Gjirokastra if you have not already visited.
Route 2: The Grand Southern Circuit (8-10 Days)
For travellers who want to combine the Riviera with the UNESCO cities and the deep south.
Days 1-2: Tirana and Kruja (the fortress town, 30 kilometres from Tirana, is a half-day excursion from the capital with a bazaar selling traditional crafts and a castle museum dedicated to Skanderbeg)
Day 3: Drive to Berat (2 hours from Tirana). Afternoon and evening in the UNESCO city. This deserves two nights.
Day 4: Second day in Berat: the castle (Kalaja) neighbourhood, the Onufri Museum, the Gorica quarter across the gorge. Evening on a guesthouse terrace above the Ottoman houses. Berat guesthouses in Mangalem quarter cost EUR 50-80 per night with views of the river and castle.
Day 5: Berat to Gjirokastra via the Permet option (if time allows, the detour via Permet and the Kelcyra Gorge adds 1.5 hours but delivers spectacular canyon scenery and the chance to stop at the Benja thermal baths). Alternatively, direct via Tepelena: 2.5 hours.
Day 6: Full day in Gjirokastra: castle, old bazaar, Skenduli house museum. Overnight in the UNESCO city. Guesthouses in the old town cost EUR 40-70 per night and some have terraces with views over the entire valley.
Day 7: Gjirokastra to Saranda via the Blue Eye and Butrint (2 hours). Afternoon at Butrint. Evening in Saranda.
Day 8: Saranda base: Ksamil in the morning, afternoon rest or boat trip. The Saranda boat tour to seven destinations covering the islands, caves, and Blue Eye by sea is an excellent way to see the south coast from the water.
Day 9: Drive north along the Riviera: Porto Palermo, Himara, Dhermi, Llogara Pass. Overnight at Dhermi or continue to Vlora.
Day 10: Return to Tirana via the inland route or the Adriatic coast highway. The Adriatic coast option via Vlora, Fier, and the motorway is faster (3.5 hours) but less scenic than the inland route via Tepelena and Elbasan.
Route 3: The Northern Mountains Circuit (7-9 Days)
For hikers and travellers drawn to the Albanian Alps.
Day 1: Tirana arrival
Day 2: Drive to Shkodra (2 hours), visit Rozafa Castle. The castle rises from a limestone crag above the confluence of three rivers and is one of Albania’s most dramatically positioned fortresses. Overnight in Shkodra.
Day 3: Early departure for Koman ferry dock (1.5 hours from Shkodra). Board the morning ferry through the Koman Lake canyon to Fierza (2 hours). Continue by road to Valbona (45 minutes). Overnight at Valbona.
Day 4: Walk the Valbona Valley (day walks along the river) or rest for the main hike. Overnight Valbona. Guesthouse half-board in Valbona costs EUR 22-35 per person.
Day 5: The Theth-Valbona hike — cross the Valbona Pass at 1,793 metres to Theth. 5-7 hours depending on pace. Overnight Theth.
Day 6: Theth village and surroundings: Grunas waterfall, the canyon walk, and the extraordinary old guest house tradition. Drive out to Shkodra in the afternoon (3 hours) if you do not want a second night in Theth.
Day 7: Shkodra to Tirana (2 hours) or south toward the Riviera. Consider combining the northern circuit with the southern route for a ten-day all-Albania itinerary.
Route 4: The Complete Albania Circuit (12-14 Days)
The full country, done properly.
Days 1-2: Tirana. Days 3-5: North (Shkodra, Koman Lake, Valbona, Theth). Day 6: Return to Tirana or drive to Kruja. Day 7-8: South via Apollonia to Berat. Day 9: Berat to Permet (thermal baths). Day 10: Permet to Gjirokastra via Kelcyra Gorge. Day 11: Gjirokastra with day trip to Butrint. Day 12-13: Riviera (Ksamil north to Dhermi). Day 14: Drive back to Tirana via Vlora and Adriatic coast.
This is a substantial trip with a lot of driving, but the distances are manageable. Total driving days: approximately 25-30 hours over 14 days, or less than 2 hours per day on average. The payoff is seeing an extraordinary range of landscapes and cultures without repeating a destination.
Practical Driving Advice
Car type: A standard two-wheel-drive car is sufficient for the main routes and the Riviera. For mountain roads (Theth, remote interior routes) a higher-clearance vehicle is advantageous but not essential in summer.
Fuel: Petrol stations are available in all towns and on the main routes. Mountain roads between them can be long; fill up whenever you are below half a tank. Fuel costs roughly the same as in Italy — approximately EUR 1.4-1.6 per litre for petrol.
Timing: Albanian roads take longer than the distance suggests. A Google Maps estimate on a mountain route will often underestimate by 30-50%. Build time buffers, especially on the Llogara Pass road and in the north.
Speed limits: 90 km/h on open roads, 50 km/h in towns, 110 km/h on limited-access highways. Speed cameras are increasingly deployed on the main routes. Local drivers often exceed limits; do not follow their example.
Parking: Free in most places outside the major city centres. Paid parking exists in parts of Tirana, Saranda town centre, and Vlora. Never park blocking a gateway or on a curve in a mountain road.
Night driving: The mountain roads are best avoided at night for the first-time driver. The combination of hairpin bends, absent guardrails, and occasional livestock on the road makes night driving on mountain sections genuinely hazardous.
Insurance: Check your rental car agreement carefully. Many Albanian rental companies offer limited liability insurance; full coverage for off-road sections may require an additional premium. See the car rental Albania guide for what to check before signing.
See also driving in Albania for road-specific guidance including road quality maps and common hazards.
The Best Road in Albania
The coastal road from the Llogara Pass to Saranda is, without contest, the finest driving road in Albania and one of the finest in southern Europe. The combination of mountain height (the pass at 1,025 metres, with the sea visible below the entire way down), coastal drama (the road threading between limestone cliffs and the Ionian), and the succession of villages, beaches, and coves accessible from a single ribbon of tarmac makes it a journey worth undertaking slowly.
Allow the full day. Stop when you want to stop. Eat at a terrace above the sea when you find one that looks right. Do not try to complete the drive and also visit Butrint and also reach Saranda before dark. The road is the experience.
The second-best driving road: the route from Shkodra via the Koman Lake ferry approach road to Fierza. The lake approach road winds through dramatic northern Albanian terrain before reaching the ferry dock — a prelude that prepares you for the extraordinary journey through the canyon itself.
Third recommendation: the Kelcyra Gorge between Tepelena and Permet, where the road clings to the canyon wall for 30 kilometres above the full Vjosa River. Almost nobody takes this road; everyone who does remembers it.
Road Trip Costs
A week’s car rental from Tirana Airport costs EUR 200-350 for a standard vehicle, depending on the season and provider. Fuel for a week of driving covering the main routes described above costs around EUR 80-120. Tolls are minimal — the main toll on the Tirana-Vlora road is EUR 2-3 and is the only significant toll road in the country.
Add to this the accommodation, food, and activities for whichever route you choose. A week’s road trip for two people, at a comfortable mid-range level, runs EUR 800-1,200 all-in beyond the car itself. This compares to EUR 2,000-3,000 for a comparable week in Croatia or Greece.
See Albania travel budget for detailed daily cost breakdowns by accommodation tier.
When to Road Trip Albania
The ideal months for a road trip are May-June and September-October. The roads are clear of snow, the driving conditions are good, and the destinations are open and accessible without the peak summer traffic and accommodation pressure.
July and August are viable — many travellers do exactly this — but the Riviera road can be congested in peak weeks, particularly on the narrow sections north of Himara. Accommodation in the most popular spots requires advance booking weeks or months ahead.
Winter road trips are possible in the south but require flexibility for the Llogara Pass (which can close briefly in snow) and awareness of reduced services along the coast. The northern routes (Theth, Valbona) are not suitable for winter driving.
Where to Stay on the Road
The road trip infrastructure has improved dramatically in recent years. You can now find good-quality accommodation at every stage of the main routes:
- Tirana: Full range from budget hostels to four-star hotels
- Vlora: Good guesthouses and newer hotels on the seafront from EUR 45-80
- Dhermi and Himara: Seasonal guesthouses and beach hotels, EUR 50-120 in season
- Saranda: Year-round hotels, EUR 45-90
- Berat: Atmospheric guesthouses in the UNESCO quarters, EUR 50-80
- Gjirokastra: Old-town guesthouses in tower houses, EUR 40-75
- Theth and Valbona: Mountain guesthouses with half-board, EUR 22-35 per person
The Albanian Riviera road trip itinerary gives a day-by-day breakdown of the classic coastal route with specific restaurant and accommodation recommendations. For the full country overview, the 10-day Albania itinerary provides a tested framework.
