Permet: Albania’s City of Flowers
In the valley of the Vjosa River, surrounded by walnut groves and rosebushes that give it the title of the City of Flowers, lies Permet — one of the most rewarding small towns in southern Albania. It is not famous in the way that Gjirokastra is famous, nor do international visitors arrive in large organised groups. What Permet offers instead is a quieter, more personal encounter with Albanian provincial life, bookended by two genuine natural attractions: the Benja thermal baths and the wild stretch of Vjosa River that passes the town.
Situated in the Gjirokastra County at an altitude of around 340 metres, Permet is the kind of place where local life spills out onto the main square in the evening and where the restaurant owner will sit down at your table to explain how the raki was made. The rose cultivation for which the city is named is genuine — the surrounding hills in spring are fragrant with flowers destined for essential oil production — and the local wine tradition predates Ottoman rule by centuries.
For travellers on the southern Albania circuit passing between Gjirokastra and the interior, Permet is the essential stop. For those who give it two nights instead of one, it can become the quiet highlight of the whole trip. The town also serves as the main access point for the Vjosa Wild River National Park, designated in 2023 as the first wild river national park in Europe. The 14-day Albania itinerary includes Permet as a key stop on the southern interior circuit.
The Benja Thermal Baths
The thermal springs at Benja are Permet’s headline attraction, and they live up to the reputation. Located about 14 kilometres south of the town, the springs emerge at the base of a dramatic limestone gorge carved by the Langarica River, a tributary of the Vjosa. Water reaches the pools at temperatures between 29 and 35 degrees Celsius, warm enough to be genuinely therapeutic but not uncomfortably hot.
The setting amplifies everything. The pools have been developed with basic stone terracing but remain essentially natural — there are no changing rooms or lockers, just water, rock, and the gorge above you. The canyon walls tower on either side and the Langarica runs cold and clear a few metres away, allowing for a bracing cold-water plunge as a counterpoint to the thermal soak. The combination of hot spring immersion and cold river plunge is one of the more pleasurable physical experiences available in Albanian travel.
Access involves a walk along the gorge path from a small parking area, crossing a suspension footbridge over the river. The path passes through a forest of oak and plane trees before opening onto the thermal area. The walk takes twenty to thirty minutes each way and is straightforward for most fitness levels.
A guided excursion from the town makes logistics easy: this guided Benja Thermal Baths tour from Permet covers transport to the gorge and local context about the spring’s geological and cultural history. Another excellent option is this tour to the Permet thermal baths which includes time for a full soak at the springs. Our Albania thermal baths guide compares all the thermal sites in the country, rating Benja among the best for natural setting and water quality.
The baths are busiest on summer weekends, when Albanian families arrive in numbers. Early morning visits on weekdays are significantly quieter. There is no entry fee for the springs themselves, though the parking area charges a small amount (typically 100-200 ALL). Bring your own towel and swimwear — there are no changing facilities. Water shoes are useful for walking on the slippery rocks around the pools.
Rafting the Vjosa River
The Vjosa River is one of Europe’s last wild rivers — a free-flowing major waterway that has never been dammed from source to sea, making it unique on the continent and the subject of considerable international conservation attention. It was designated the Vjosa Wild River National Park in 2023, the first wild river national park in Europe outside Russia.
At Permet, the Vjosa runs broad and fast over a mix of gravel bars, swimming holes, and rapids that are ideal for recreational rafting. The section downstream of the town is the most frequently run, suitable for beginners and families in summer flows while providing enough technical interest for paddlers with more experience.
Local operators in Permet offer half-day and full-day rafting packages including equipment and a guide: this amazing Vjosa River rafting experience at Permet is the most straightforward option, with all equipment and safety briefing included. The tour typically covers 8-12 kilometres of river with multiple rapid sections and several gravel bar swimming stops.
For those arriving from Saranda who want to combine the thermal baths and rafting in a single organised day, this Sarande-Permet 4x4 tour with rafting and thermal baths covers the complete Permet experience from a Saranda base — the thermal bath in the gorge and the river in the same day, with the dramatic mountain scenery of the interior en route.
Spring (April to May) offers the most dynamic water conditions as snowmelt from the Gramoz and Nemerska massifs swells the river. Summer flows are gentler and warmer, ideal for swimming off the raft at gravel bar stops. The summer temperature of the Vjosa — typically 18-22 degrees Celsius — makes extended swimming comfortable. Our rafting in Albania guide covers the Vjosa alongside other Albanian rafting rivers.
Wine and the Vreshti i Pashait Winery
Permet sits in a region with one of the oldest documented wine traditions in Albania. The Kallmet and Shesh grape varieties grown in these valleys predate the Ottoman period, and winemaking continued — sometimes clandestinely — through the communist era despite restrictions. Today, small family wineries are re-establishing what was once a significant regional industry.
The Vreshti i Pashait winery is the most established visitor-facing wine operation near Permet: this Vreshti i Pashait winery tour and wine tasting provides both wine and cultural context — the story of how Albanian wine traditions survived communism and are now being revived by passionate local winemakers. The tasting covers several wines from both native Albanian varieties and international grapes planted since 1990. Our wine tasting in Albania guide places the Permet wine tradition in the broader national context.
Beyond formal wine tourism, raki production in the Permet area is a household art. Almost every family in the surrounding villages maintains a small still, and the walnut and grape raki produced here has a reputation among connoisseurs across Albania. The walnut raki in particular — intensely flavoured and distinctively regional — is one of the things to seek out and buy before leaving.
The Town of Permet
The town itself, home to around 8,000 residents, has the pleasant shabbiness of a post-communist provincial centre that is slowly finding its footing as a tourism destination. The main square — Sheshi Skenderbej — anchors the evening social life. Cafes open their terraces from April onwards and stay busy until midnight in summer.
The old bazaar area preserves several Ottoman-era buildings and a functioning covered market where local produce — walnuts, dried herbs, honey, cheese, peppers — is sold by the producers themselves. The Saturday market is particularly lively and worth timing your visit around. The walnut section of the market, in autumn, is particularly impressive — enormous quantities of freshly harvested nuts at prices that make bringing a bag home irresistible.
The Orthodox Church of the Dormition of the Virgin, dating from the nineteenth century, contains notable interior frescoes and is open to visitors outside service times. The small local museum documents the regional history and the role of Permet in the national independence movements of the early twentieth century.
Where to Eat
Regional cooking in Permet reflects the mountain-meets-river geography. Grilled trout from the Vjosa is a signature dish — freshwater fish cooked simply over wood coals, dressed with local olive oil and lemon, and accompanied by a simple salad of cucumber, tomato, and spring onion. The trout from the Vjosa and its tributaries is particularly fine — wild-caught rather than farmed, with a delicate flavour that reflects the cold, clean water.
Restorant Kripa (main square area) — The most popular restaurant in Permet, known for excellent grilled trout and tave kosi. Good local wine list. The owner sources fish directly from local fishermen and produces his own raki. Budget EUR 6-12 per person.
Kafja e Vjoses (riverside) — Simple but excellent grill restaurant with views of the river. The lamb on the spit is exceptional. Budget EUR 5-10 per person.
Thermal baths cafe — A basic cafe at the Benja parking area serves coffee and cold drinks. Not a meal destination but useful for a post-soak coffee and a piece of byrek.
Walnuts appear everywhere in Permet: in desserts, in salads, ground into sauces. The walnut groves around Permet are some of the oldest in the region. Buy a bag from the market to take with you. Qumeshtor, a semolina and milk dessert, is made with particular care in the Permet area and is the classic finish to a local meal. Restaurant prices are low even by Albanian standards — a full dinner with local wine or raki, multiple courses, and dessert rarely exceeds EUR 12-15 per person. See our Albanian food guide for the dishes to seek out.
Getting to Permet
By bus. Daily buses connect Permet with Tirana (about four to five hours), Gjirokastra (around ninety minutes), and Berat (around two hours). The bus station is on the edge of town; services are most frequent in the morning. The journey from Gjirokastra passes through spectacular gorge scenery along the Drino river.
By car. Driving gives the most flexibility, particularly for visiting the thermal baths and wineries on your own schedule. The road from Gjirokastra passes through spectacular gorge scenery. From Tirana, the main route goes via Lushnja and Fier, taking approximately three to four hours. See our car rental in Albania guide for vehicle recommendations.
Guided transfers. Several operators offer transfers from Tirana or Gjirokastra as part of broader southern Albania itineraries.
Where to Stay in Permet
The accommodation offer has improved significantly in recent years. A handful of small guesthouses and family-run hotels in the EUR 20-40 per night range offer clean, comfortable rooms and excellent breakfasts. Several newer boutique options have opened catering to the growing eco-tourism and adventure travel market.
Staying in town gives easier access to the evening social life and the Saturday market. Staying at a guesthouse near Benja adds appeal if the thermal baths are your primary reason for visiting — some properties near the gorge entrance offer simple rooms with river views.
Best Time to Visit Permet
April through October covers the primary season, with the sweet spot in late May and June when the roses are in bloom, the Vjosa is flowing well for rafting, and the thermal baths are not yet at summer-weekend capacity.
July and August are warm (often above 35 degrees at midday), but the gorge and thermal pool offer natural cooling, and evenings are pleasant. September and October bring excellent hiking weather, the walnut harvest, and very few international tourists. The autumn light in the Vjosa valley, with the walnut leaves turning gold above the turquoise river, is one of the more quietly beautiful seasonal moments in Albania.
Hiking Around Permet
Beyond the river and thermal bath activities, the hills and gorges around Permet reward those who explore on foot. The trail to the village of Frashtani in the hills above Permet passes through old walnut groves and offers views across the valley to the Nemerska mountain range, which forms the border with Greece. The walk takes about two hours each way and is manageable without a guide.
The Langarica Canyon, which contains the thermal baths, is also traversable on foot beyond the thermal area through a narrow gorge section with natural arches and overhangs. The full canyon traverse to the upland village of Benja requires some scrambling and is best done with a local guide or at least good footwear and a navigation app. The mountains directly east of Permet — the Gjere range — have higher trails reaching 2,000 metres with views into both Albania and Greece.
Our hiking the Albanian Alps guide covers the most significant mountain routes in Albania, while the rafting in Albania guide provides additional context for the river activities and seasonal conditions.
Permet and the Vjosa National Park
The designation of the Vjosa as Europe’s first wild river national park in 2023 has elevated Permet’s profile as an ecotourism destination. The park status applies to the river corridor from its source in the Gramoz mountains to the Adriatic sea at Narta, with Permet sitting near the middle of the protected stretch.
For travellers, this means the Vjosa is likely to remain in its current state — wild, swimmable, raftable, unpredictable — for the foreseeable future. The threats from proposed dam construction that loomed over the river for much of the past two decades have been substantially reduced by the national park designation. The river you raft today is the same river that will be here for future generations.
Day Trips from Permet
Kelcyre Gorge. Twelve kilometres north of Permet, the Vjosa cuts through a dramatic limestone gorge near the village of Kelcyre. The ruins of a medieval fortress occupy the gorge rim, and the road through is one of the most scenic in the region.
Tepelena. Further north along the Vjosa, the small city of Tepelena was the birthplace of Ali Pasha of Ioannina — the legendary and ruthless eighteenth-century Ottoman governor who famously received Lord Byron as a guest in 1809. The ruined castle offers views over the gorge confluence.
Novosela and Petran. Remote villages in the hills above Permet accessible by rough track preserve traditional stone architecture and way of life. Hiring a local driver-guide for a half-day village circuit is worthwhile and inexpensive.
Practical Tips
Bring cash — there are ATMs in Permet but their reliability is inconsistent outside banking hours. Sunscreen and a water bottle are essential for summer visits to the thermal baths. The suspension bridge to the baths can be slippery when wet; wear shoes you can get wet. The thermal baths have no changing facilities, so wear a swimsuit under your clothes.
Permet rewards slow travel. Two nights allows you to do the thermal baths properly, spend a morning on the river, visit the winery, and still have time to sit in the square at dusk with a coffee. One night is possible but leaves you feeling like you only scratched the surface.
For broader budget planning, our Albania travel budget guide shows what to expect across different accommodation and dining choices in southern Albania.
Frequently Asked Questions About Permet
What are the Benja thermal baths like?
The Benja baths are a series of natural thermal pools on the Lengarica River, accessed via a suspension bridge approximately 5 km from Permet. The water emerges at around 29-32°C and the pools sit in a dramatic canyon setting with overhanging limestone cliffs and forested banks. The experience is completely natural — no spa facilities, no changing rooms, no admission fee — just warm river water in a beautiful Albanian gorge. Wear a swimsuit under your clothes and bring shoes you can get wet.
Can you go rafting on the Vjosa River near Permet?
Yes — the Vjosa River near Permet is one of Albania’s best spots for rafting. The Vjosa is Europe’s last large wild river, and the stretch around Permet features both calm floats and more technical sections depending on water levels. Local operators in Permet organise half-day and full-day rafting trips, typically costing EUR 20-40 per person. Spring (April-May) and early summer offer the best water levels, though the river is navigable through most of the season.
Is Permet known for wine?
Permet has a longstanding local wine tradition and the region produces distinctive red wines from indigenous varieties grown on the surrounding hillsides. The Cobo Winery near Permet is one of the better-known producers and offers informal tastings. The area’s rakija (grape brandy) is also locally celebrated. Wine culture here is quieter and less commercial than the Berat region, adding to the appeal for travelers seeking authentic rather than packaged experiences.
How do you get to Permet?
Permet is most easily reached by bus from Gjirokastra (approximately 1.5 hours) or Tirana (approximately 4-5 hours). There is no direct tourist bus from Saranda, but the journey is manageable via Gjirokastra with some planning. A private transfer or rental car gives considerably more flexibility, particularly for reaching the Benja baths and surrounding villages. Most travelers include Permet on a southern Albania circuit combining Gjirokastra, the Blue Eye, and the Ionian coast.
How many days should you spend in Permet?
Two nights allows you to experience Permet properly: the thermal baths on the first afternoon, the Vjosa valley and surrounding villages on the second day, with time in the evenings to eat in the square and try local wine. One night is possible if you are time-pressured, but you will feel the constraint. The unhurried pace and genuinely local atmosphere of Permet benefit from a slow approach — it is not a destination designed for quick visits.
